Cinque Terre update.

Last September, we spent a magical couple of days in Vernazza, Italy.  Because the trains were on strike, the only way to reach the village was on foot.  And since it had rained heavily a few days before, the path from Corniglia was partially closed.
 
As a result, we had the gem of the Ligurian coast practically to ourselves.  We hiked the Monterosso and Corniglia trails, and then returned to Vernazza for a swim and a lazy afternoon on the piazza with the quintessential Italian cocktail – an Aperol spritz.  

 
The next morning, we weren’t terribly disappointed when high seas cancelled our boat trip along the coast.  We did a little more hiking, explored the shops lining Vernazza’s main street, and just enjoyed “Il dolce far niente,” the fine art of doing nothing.
 
A month later, Vernazza, as we knew it, was gone. 
 
On October 25, 2011, torrential rains sent a terrifying river of mud through Vernazza and neighboring Monterosso al Mare, killing four people and burying most of Vernazza under 10 feet of debris. 
 
We cried as we watched the news footage online.  Then quickly made a donation to savevernazza.com, a website created to raise funds to help rebuilt the village. 
 
It’s been six months since the catastrophe, and progress can best be described as slow, but steady.  It’s business as usual in Riomaggiore, Manarola, and Corniglia.  And due to its proximity to the town of Levanto, Monterosso is in pretty good shape. 
 

Sadly, Vernazza still has a way to go before it’s back to normal.  
 
To their credit, the people of Vernazza have done a tremendous job of digging out.  And it’s amazing what they’ve been able to accomplish a such a short period of time.  Many of the Vernazza hotels and stores have reopened and many more hope to reopen in June. 
 
But upper Vernazza, the delightful waterfront piazza and the main street still bear witness to the tragedy. The little grocery store and wine market haven’t reopened.  And the coastal trail from Manrola to Corniglia – the Via dell’ Amore – and to Vernazza remains closed for repairs. 
 
If you’re wondering whether or not to visit the Cinque Terre (http://tripplanningguide.com/exploring-cinque-terre-italy) this year, it depends on your disposition.  If you do go, your experience won’t be as picture perfect as in years past.  But you’ll have the added satisfaction of knowing that your tourist dollars are helping this precious, UNESCO World Heritage site.